How to: Hidden zipper

In this tutorial we will show you how to create the perfect hidden zipper. V tomto tutoriáli vám predvedieme ako ušiť skrytý zips. For this ...

In this tutorial we will show you how to create the perfect hidden zipper.

V tomto tutoriáli vám predvedieme ako ušiť skrytý zips.



For this tutorial you will need:
  • a hidden zipper
  • your skirt, trousers, dress or piece of fabric you want to learn with.
Pre tento tutoriál budete potrebovať:
  • skrytý zips
  • vašu sukňu, nohavice šaty alebo akýkoľvek kus látky s ktorým budete pracovať.
First thing, find on which side your hidden zipper is going to be. It should end up being on the left side of your piece of clothing, I will call it a skirt from now on.
Najprv definujte na ktorú stranu má ísť skrytý zips. Normálne sa umiestňujú na ľavú stranu.
Place the zipper on the front side of fabric, the more colorful one, the one which is showed. The zipper should be bottom up, make sure it is.
Uložte zips na líce látky, teda na prednú stranu, spodnou stranou dolu. 

Set it to the edge of the piece, I started with front piece of skirt, so I narrowed it along the right edge. 
Uložte ho na okraj látky, ja som začala s predným dielom takže som ho uložila k pravému okraju.
Watch out for the length of the zipper mine was too long so I made it hanging out and it the end I cut it. Do not cut it right away!! Wait until the very end, before sewing the waistband.
Dávajte pozor na dĺžku zipsu, môj bol príliš dlhý takže som ho nechala visieť voľne. Neodstrihávajte ho hneď ak bude pridlhý ale až úplne v poslednej chvíli pri prišívaní pásika.
But normally you should have it at least 2 centimetres out like in the picture below.
Normálne by mal pretŕčať asi o dva centimetre.

You can use pins to make it still or baste it. I preffer bating it since the fabric can be slippery and I am more sure about sewing it that way. But if you are really confident you can just pin it up and dont baste it, even though I recommend you not to.
Zips môžte prišpendlíkovať ak veríte svojim schopnostiam ale odporúčam ho prifercovať, hlavne pri klzkých látkach.

For sewing the hidden zipper you need special presser foot for hidden zippers. These are included in sewing machine basics, but if you don't have any you can buy them.
Mine was included and looks like this: 
Pre prišívanie skrytého zipsu existuje špeciálna patka, ktorá býva bežne pribalená k stroju ale ak ju nemáte nemal by byť problém ju kúpiť.
Moja bola súčasťou stroja a vyzerá takto:


The zipper goues through the tunnel in the presser foot narrowing itself down and the needle stitches next to the zipper, making in the conclusion the zipper almost invisible. There are other types of presser foots but the principle is the same. The presser narrows the zipper and makes sure the needle runs next to it.
Zips prechádza špeciálnym tunelom, ktorý ho vyrovná a ihla potom šije tesne popri zipse. Existujú aj ďalšie druhy patiek ale princíp použitia ostáva rovnaký.
It is crittical to learn how to use this presser so the stitches next to the zipper are in narrow line and no curves or bumps are created, otherwise the zipper wil keep getting stuck. Watch out for slippery fabrics!!
Je dôležité naučiť sa používať túto patku, hlavne pri klzkých látkach pretože sa môžu vytvoriť nerovné stehy a tie potom spôsobia, že sa zips bude zasekávať.

Once you've done one side, turn the zipper to the other and narrow it down to the other piece of skirt and baste it. It should look like one the pictures below. Don't forget that the zipper goes to the front side of fabric, plus the fabrics always goes front side to front side.
Keď máte jednu stranu hotovú prifercujte zips na druhej strane pričom dávajte pozor aby išlo líce k lícu.


 If you turn it around it should look like this.
Keď ho potom otočíte mal by vyzerať takto.

Once you have basted it, sew it on and watch out for the needle to be on the right side of zipper (right as the good, optimal side), so it won't be sewing through the zipper teeth. In the end you have perfectly sewed zipper.
Keď ho máte prifercovaný prišite ho. Dávajte pozor na to kadiaľ šije ihla, aby šila po správnej strane a nezlomila sa na zúbkoch zipsu. Výsledkom je perfektne ušitý skrytý zips.

It is good to press it in the end.
Na záver sa zips zvykne prežehliť aby vyzeral lepšie.

Sincerely,
whitelilit.

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